Abstract
The strength of dimethylolethyleneurea (DMEU)-treated yarns and fabrics has been studied as a function of yarn premercerization technique. Yarns, which were suitably mercerized and tensioned, possessed, after subsequent cross-linking, a strength equal to or greater than unmercerized, untreated yarn. Fabrics woven from certain of the mercerized yarns showed extraordinarily high strength retention when treated with DMEU. At a level of treatment which imparted 275-279° conditioned wrinkle recovery and a wash-wear rating of 5.0, the average percent of break and tear strength retention equalled or exceeded the same average for unmercerized, uncross-linked fabric. In one of these fabrics, the average strength retention, after cross-linking, was 96% of that prior to cross-linking. Thus, the effects of mercerization cannot be explained on the basis of a strength buildup which merely offsets subsequent losses during resin treatment. It is concluded that the strength of cotton after DMEU cotton-linking depends critically on the physicochemical state of the cotton prior to cross-linking. The results demonstrate that large strength losses are not inherent to the formation of covalent cross links in cotton cellulose and that cotton fabrics having high wash-wear performance can be produced with negligible reduction in strength properties.