In order to examine the mechanisms by which seams age and fail under loads typical of those in use, factors and interactions among factors influencing the change in load required to extend an ISO-301 stitched seam (type ISO 1.01.01) during repeated lon gitudinal extension/recovery cycles at low loads are identified. Fabric type and exten sion limit have the greatest effect on the load required to reach maximum extension of the seam between 0-100 cycles, while fabric type is important over the range 100- 5000 cycles. Variables depending on inclusion of the seam (thread type, linear stitch density) have the most influence during the initial extension. Visual aspects of seam ageing are examined with optical and scanning electron microscopes, and two distinct processes occurring during tensile cycling are identified. Fabric type and thread type are the most important variables affecting the breaking load and breaking extension of cycled seams. Although interactions among variables are not important individually, together they account for 13% of the total variance in breaking extension.
References
1.
Aditya, R.N. , and Bose, S.K., Seam Strengths of Jute Bags , Ind. Textile J.93 (7). 79-86 (1983).
2.
Ajiki, I., Mahar, T.J. and Postle, R., Measurement of Structural Balance and Mechanical Properties of Seamed Fabrics , in "Objective Evaluation of Apparel Fabrics," R. Postle, S. Kawabata, and M. Niwa, Eds., The Textile Machinery Society of Japan, Osaka, Japan, 1983, pp. 349-358.
3.
AnnualBook of ASTM Standards (part 32): Textiles-Yams, Fabrics and General Test Methods, Standard Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles, ASTM Designation: d76-90, Standard Test Method for Failure of Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics, ASTM Designation: D 1683-90a, American Society for Testing and Materials, Easton, PA, 1990.
4.
Blackwood, W.J., and Chamberlain, N.H. , The Strength of Seams in Knitted Fabrics, technological report 22, The Clothing Institute, London, 1970.
5.
Brain, D.H., ThePrediction of Strengths of Lockstitch Seams in Woven Fabrics, J. Textile Inst.61 (10), 493-505 (1970).
6.
Cochran, W.G., and Cox, G.M., "Experimental Designs," 2nd ed., John Wiley and Sons, Inc., NY, 1992 .
7.
Crow, R.M., and Dewar, M.M., Stresses in Clothing as Related to Seam Strength, Textile Res. J.56 (8), 467-473 (1986).
8.
Dorkin, C.M.C., and Chamberlain, N.H. , Lockstitch Seams in Knitted Fabrics, technological report 11, The Clothing Institute, London, 1962.
9.
Hattori, Y., Niwa, M., and Kawabata, S., Changes in Mechanical Properties of Fabrics after Repeated Deformation , J. Textile Machin. Soc. Jpn. 30 ( I ), 1-12 (1984).
10.
Hearle, J.W.S. , Lomas, B., Cooke , W.D., and Duerden. I.J., "Fibre Failure and Wear of Materials, An Atlas of Fracture, Fatigue and Durability," Ellis Horwood Series in Polymer Science and Technology, T. J. Kemp and J. F. Kennedy , Eds., Ellis Horwood Ltd., John Wiley and Sons, Chichester, U.K., 1989.
11.
Hurt, F.N., and Parker, R., Seam Geometry in Knitted Fabrics, 1: The Lockstitch Seam, research report 34, Hatra Research Centre for Knitting, Dyeing and Making-up , Nottingham, U.K., 1975.
12.
Hurt, F.N., and Parker, R., Seam Geometry in Knitted Fabrics, 2: The Two Thread Chainstitch Seam, research report 37, Hatra Research Centre for Knitting, Dyeing, and Making-up, Nottingham, U.K., 1.975.
13.
Iso1992Textiles, Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing, ISO 139:1973, BS EN 20139:1992, Textiles—Woven Fabrics—Determination of Breaking Strength, Grab Method, ISO 5082-1982 (E), International Organization for Standardization, Geneva , Switzerland, 1992.
14.
Kirk, W., and Ibrahim, S.M., Fundamental Relationship of Fabric Extensibility to Anthropometric Requirements and Garment Fit, Textile Res. J.36 (1), 37-47 ( 1966).
15.
Laing, R.M., TheLockstitch Seam, A Model of the Geometric Structure and Tensile Behaviour, Doctoral thesis, University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand, 1987.
16.
Laing, R.M., Lockstitch Models Re-Examined, in "Advanced Workshop on the Application of Mathematics and Physics in the Wool Industry," G. A. Carnaby, E. J. Wood , and L. F. Story, Eds., Wool Research Organisation of New Zealand Inc. and The Textile Institute, Lincoln, New Zealand, 1988, pp. 526-535.
17.
Laing, R.M. , and Pearshouse, C., Micro-Software Development Aids Elucidating Tensile Behavior of the Lockstitch Seam, Textile Res. J.57 ( 5 ), 256-264 (1987 ).
18.
Nestler, R. , and Kautz, J., Changes in the Twist of Sewing Threads during the Sewing Process, Faserforsch. Textiltech. HATRA Trans.24 (10), 418-422 (1973).
19.
O'Dwyer, U. , and Munden, D.L., A Study of the Lockstitch Seam, Part 2: The Extension at Break of Lockstitched Seams under Longitudinal Loading Conditions , Clothing Res. J.3 (1),33-40 (1975).
20.
Picciotto, R., and Hersh, S.P., The Tensile Fatigue Behavior of a Warp Yarn and Its Influence on Weaving Performance, Textile Res. J.42 (9), 512-522 (1972).
21.
Postle, R., Carnaby, G.A., and de Jong, S., 'The Mechanics of Wool Structures," Ellis Horwood Series in Applied Science and Technology, John Wiley and Sons, Chichester, U.K., 1988.
22.
Sauri, R.M. , Manich, A.M., Barella , A., Lloria, J., Etayo, J., and Rasanas, J., A Factorial Study of Seam Resistance: Woven and Knitted Fabrics, Ind. J. Textile Res.12, 183-193 (1987).
23.
Schmid, U., and Mecheels, J., Forces Acting on Textiles and Clothing Seams as Functions of Body Movements and Cut of Garment, Melliand Textilber. Eng. Ed.10 (3), 314-320 (1981).
24.
Shimazaki, K., and Lloyd, D.W., Opening Behavior of Lockstitch Seams in Woven Fabrics under Cyclic Loading Conditions, Textile Res. J.60 (11), 654-662 ( 1990).
25.
Slater, K., TheProgressive Deterioration of Textile Materials, Part 1: Characteristics of Degradation, J. Textile Inst.77 (2), 76-87 (1986).
26.
Tao, X., and Postle, R., Physical Ageing and Annealing in Fibres and Textile Materials, Part I: Physical Ageing in Single Wool Fibers and Textile Assemblies, Textile Res. J.57 (7), 387-396 (1987).
27.
Webster, J., Effects of Ageing on Selected Mechanical Properties of ISO-301 Stitched Seams , Doctoral thesis, University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand, 1996.
