During the latter part of the 18th century in Scotland, especially in rural areas, there was a dramatic shift from relatively stable and unchanging dress forms to fashion in dress, the ongoing substitution of existing forms with new ones. From an analysis of primary sources it is clear that these changes were often perceived as threatening. This paper addresses the conceptual relevance offashion as threat, it explores fashion as an ideal symbolic medium for venting perceptions of threat posed by other domains in the social/cultural system, and it addresses the symbolic power of dress and fashion in conserving the perception of social order and stability at the same time that it facilitates cultural change.
References
1.
Brown, P.H. (1961). A short history of Scotland. Edinburgh: Oliver & Boyd. (Original work published in 1908)
2.
Chambers, R. (Ed.). (1858). Domestic annals of Scotland (Vols. 1-3). Edinburgh: n.p.
3.
Dodds, J. (Ed.). (1887). The diary and general expense book of William Cunningham of Craigends. N.p.: T. & A. Constable Printers for the Scottish History Society.
4.
Douglas, M. (1973). Natural symbols. New York: Random House.
5.
Duncan, H.D. (1969). Symbols and social theory. New York: Oxford University Press.
6.
Durkheim, E. (1976). The elementary forms of the religious life (2nd ed.). London: George Akken and Unwin. (Original work published 1915)
7.
Flores, T. (1985). The anthropology of aesthetics. Dialectical Anthropology, 10 (1 & 2), 27-41.
8.
Geertz, C. (1973). The interpretation of cultures. New York: Basic Books.
9.
Graham, H.G. (1971). Social life of Scotland in the eighteenth century . New York: Benjamin Blom. (Original work 1899)
10.
Grant, I.F. (1971). Social and economic development of Scotland before 1603. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press . (Original work published 1930)
11.
Hamilton, H. (1945). Selections from the Monymusk Papers: 1715-1755 (3rd Series, 39). Edinburgh: Scottish History Society Publications.
12.
Hamilton, J.A. (1987). Dress as a cultural subsystem: A unifying metatheory for clothing and textiles. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 6(1), 1-7.
13.
Hamilton, J.A. (1990). "The silk worms of the East must be pillaged": The cultural foundations of mass fashion. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 8(4), 40-48.
14.
Lonnqvist, B. (1979). Symbolic values in clothing. Ethnologia Scandinavica, 9, 92-105.
15.
Lukes, S. (1973). IndividualismOxford, England: Basil Blackwell.
16.
Lythe, S.G.E., & Butt, J. (1975). An economic history of Scotland: 1100-1939. Glasgow: Blackie.
17.
Mitchinson, R. (1982). A history of Scotland. London : Methune.
18.
Peacock, J.L. (1975). Consciousness and change. New York: John Wiley.
19.
Plant, M. (1952). The domestic life of Scotland in the eighteenth century. Edinburgh: University Press .
20.
Pryde, G.S. (1962). Scotland from 1603 to the present day. London: Thomas Nelson.
21.
Roach, M.E., & Musa, K.E. (1981). New perspectives in the history of Western dress (Handbook of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art). New York: NutriGuides.
22.
Sinclair, J. (1795-1814). Statistical account of Scotland (Vols. 1-21). Edinburgh: n. p.
23.
Sinclair, J. (1970). Analysis of the statistical account of Scotland (Vol. 2). New York: Johnson Reprint. (Original work published 1826)
24.
Smout, T.C. (1969). A history of the Scottish people: 1560-1830. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons.
25.
White, L.A. (1959). The concept of culture. American Anthropologist, 61 (2), 227-251.
26.
Youngson, A.J. (1974). Beyond the Highland line: Three journals of travel in eighteenth centuryScotland: Burt, Pennant, Thornton. London : Collins.
